Lighter fabrics, floral prints set to bloom


NEW YORK — As New York Fashion Week continues rolling out the Spring 2018 collections, things seem to be literally lightening up.

Exhibit A: the 3.1 Phillip Lim show, which put lots of white and light-hued classic cuts in the spotlight. The presentation was refreshing — lots of clean lines (some asymmetric), polished striped pants, and the kinds of ruffled blouses that are just so easy to throw on and wear without a fuss.

Ulla Johnson also went for the lighter side, this time with fabrics. Using lots of sheer organza on shift dresses, crocheted miniskirts and fluttering sleeves on blouses and jackets, she also mixed bold new denim shapes (such as a knee-length jacket) dyed green and black. And her floral creations — especially the ultra-feminine dresses with super-skinny spaghetti straps — would make anyone wish it was spring already.

Jason Wu embraced the relaxed spirit of spring with striped dresses sporting tummy-baring cutouts, fun peplum sweaters and more formal dresses in informal fabrics such as jersey. (He also sent out some terrific jersey skirts for day wear.) On other gowns he went in for lots of pleating and sheerness.

Other designers played with time and place in their collections — such as the female duo behind Veronica Beard, who took Acapulco in the ’70s as their inspiration. Their show was packed with tweed bustiers, floral poplin and flirty striped jackets with flowy, statement-making backs.

Meanwhile, Adam Lippes looked to the East for his ideas. Or, rather, East-meets-West. Inspired by the elegance of Japanese designs, he infused his collection of slouchy trousers with slices of vintage kimono fabrics and tons of Asian florals. He tricked out his denim creations (such as formfitting skirts and capris) with vintage shibori dyes met with acid wash — equal parts cutting edge and everyday cool.

Derek Lam seemed to travel across America, what with his shirts bearing leather snaps, mint suede military coats and sharply cut khakis. On the more formal front, the crowd swooned over the silk bodice evening gown he sent out, complete with a stunning knot detail.

 



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